SetupReady Guide
How to read a headphone spec sheet
Headphone specs are the least predictive numbers in this catalog — two 40mm drivers can sound wildly different. But a few specs do tell you real things.
Open-back vs closed-back
The one spec that changes everything. Open-back: spacious, natural sound — and everyone in the room hears your music while you hear the room. For quiet home offices. Closed-back: isolates in both directions — for shared spaces, commutes, and recording.
Impedance and sensitivity — do you need an amp?
Low impedance (16–32Ω) runs happily off a laptop or phone. High impedance (150Ω, 250Ω, 300Ω) headphones get quiet and lifeless without a dedicated DAC/amp — that's why audiophile listings pair them. If a sheet says 250Ω+, budget for an amp or pick something else.
Driver size and type
Bigger drivers are not better — tuning is everything. Driver type hints at character: dynamic (punchy bass, the default), planar magnetic (fast, detailed, heavier and power-hungry), balanced armature (common in IEMs, detailed but less bass slam).
ANC and transparency
Active noise cancelling quality varies enormously and the spec sheet won't tell you — it kills low rumble (fans, engines) far better than voices. If ANC is the point, buy on reviews, not the checkbox.
Wireless codecs and latency
For music, any modern codec is fine. For gaming or video editing, Bluetooth's latency is audible lip-sync lag — you want a 2.4GHz dongle (gaming headsets) or wired. "Frequency response 20Hz–20kHz" appears on everything and means nothing about quality.
The 10-second cheat sheet
- Quiet home office: open-back wired + modest DAC/amp is the best sound per dollar.
- Calls + focus in shared space: closed-back ANC.
- Gaming: 2.4GHz wireless headset or wired — never plain Bluetooth.
- Ignore: frequency-response ranges, driver size bragging, "Hi-Res" stickers.